Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.